Grasmere and Rydal in Autumn

What mixed weather we are having this Autumn. Torrential rain, then warm days and sunshine, and as I write this we are having hailstones, rain, then sunshine. No wonder we talk about the weather so much!

Late Autumn sunshine at Rydal

One of the most popular walks from Grasmere is to Rydal water and back and Autumn is one of the best times to do this walk whatever the weather.

Autumn mist early morning Grasmere

Trees are changing colour and the hedgerows are full of blackberries.

Grasmere blackberries

Mushrooms are everywhere, so many varieties and more than I can remember seeing for a long time.

A good year for fungi

The first tree that changes colour in Grasmere every year seems to be the one in Grasmere Garden Centre beside the church.

Autumn tree, Grasmere Church

Grasmere daffodil garden with it’s pathway of visitors names is littered with falling leaves, getting ready for Winter rest before bursting into bloom again in the Spring.

Autumn leaves

People are making the most of the last of the lighter evenings.

Swimmer at Rydal

There were a couple of people swimming in Rydal Water when I went past.

Lake Swimming Rydal Water

It was a perfect evening for it. I contented myself with opening conkers while I watched them. Much less energetic!

conkers

The evening light was starting to fade.

Autumn at Rydal Boathouse.

So just time for a few more photos before heading for home.

Rydal Water

Autumn in the Lake District, Given the right weather you just can’t beat it.

Last light Rydal Water

Written on a Macbook. Some photos taken with iPad. RIP Steve Jobs 1955 – 2011

Grasmere Rushbearing 2011

Living in the Lake District you do quite often get slightly fed up with the weather. Ok we all say “well you wouldn’t have the lakes if you didn’t have the rain” but sometimes it would be nice to wake up, pull back the curtains and see the sun shining!.

Rushbearing Maidens 2011

Grasmere Rushbearing is one such day. So much work goes into the preparation for this traditional Lakeland event that it’s fingers crossed all round for fine weather.

Preparing the bearings

So guess what ? yet again this year it was raining. For the past few days the little tractor had been chugging backwards and forwards to the church full of rushes from the lake side. Everyone carried on getting ready, with more than a few glimpses towards the sky.

Here they come

Then as so often happens, right at the last minute, the skies cleared.

Rushbearing Maidens

There were still a few spectators balancing umbrellas but there was nothing like the torrential downpour that had started the day.

Taffy Thomas Storyteller Laureate

The great thing about Rushbearing is that everyone takes part. Taffy Thomas who is the current Storyteller Laureate had just finished doing an event in the storytellers garden and was watching the procession while clutching that other Grasmere tradition Grasmere gingerbread!

Happy Villagers

With being a busy tourist village, during the summer months it’s a case of heads down and on with work, but on this day we all come out and celebrate. Being in the tourist industry we tend to do a reverse hibernation. Don’t see anyone in the summer as so busy working, then come winter we all appear and have time to catch up.

Local Hotelier Josie.

One new adidtion to Rushbearing was spotted in the National Trust Information Centre. They have produced a greetings card and postcard of the Rushbearing painting by Frank Bramley RA which although purchased by public subscription by the villagers of Grasmere is in the care of National Trust.

Rushbearing by Frank Bramley RA

Frank Bramley married Katherine Graham from Huntingstile Grasmere in 1891, hence his link with the village. He was a member of the Newlyn School of Artists. Newlyn was a small fishing village in Cornwall where the light was considered particularly good for painting outdoors. He started the Rushbearing painting in about 1900 and it took him four years to complete. It was exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1905. The painting is seldom seen, however I do hear that there may be plans to let the public view it during next year’s Rushbearing.

Traditional Bearings

The Rushbearing procession winds it’s way round the village with a brief stop at Moss Parrock before heading back to St. Oswald’s Church. I don’t think many people realise just how heavy some of these bearings can be.

Young villagers at Rushbearing

It is great to see such an ancient tradition being celebrated each year and to see the younger children enjoying themselves as much as their parents and grandparents did in the past. For more information about the history of Rushbearing please see the post I did earlier in this blog.

Grasmere Rushbearing 2011

Late Evening Loughrigg Fell

A busy day, but still a beautiful evening despite light fading fast. Ok it’s a bit of a cheat but a quick drive up Red Bank road from Grasmere towards Elterwater takes you to a very conveniently placed pull in just before High Close YHA.

Looking down on Grasmere

From there it’s just a quick walk across Loughrigg Fell to get some great views of Grasmere. Sometimes it’s nice just to get out for half an hour of fresh air.

Loughrigg towards Dunmail Raise

The sun was setting and some of the Vale of Grasmere was already in darkness, other bits of the fell highlighted by the last rays of the sun. As I was walking along I was reminded of a couple I met who had been visiting during the Foot and Mouth crisis of 2001. The village was more or less deserted, no one was travelling to the countryside, and if they were then the fells were out of bounds.

Late evening Loughrigg Fell

I had asked them how they were enjoying their holiday, expecting the usual complaint about not being able to go out walking. To my surprise they said they were having the best time ever!. When I spoke to them further they said that every time they visited the Lake District they felt guilty if they didn’t  go out walking every day. On this visit they couldn’t so were having a lovely time just pottering about the villages, stopping for a cup of tea and taking in the views around them.

Sunlight towards Rydal

In a way it’s a bit like that when you live here. You feel you really should get out in the evening and make the most of the day. It took me a long time to realise that you don’t have to plan a major expedition to make the most of where you live. There is nothing wrong with “cheating” a bit and driving somewhere and just having a short walk.

Last light over Grasmere

Taking half an hour out just to sit with a flask of coffee and watch the sun go down is good for the soul. Major walks can wait for another day.

Langdale Pikes in the distance

We live in a beautiful part of the country, the main thing is to appreciate it!

National Trust Grasmere Gallop 2011

There seems to be a bit of a National Trust theme running through this blog at the moment, but credit where credit is due. First of all they open a much needed Information Centre in the village, and now they have brought back the much loved Grasmere Gallop to the village.

Grasmere Gallop 2011

The 10K Gallop was something that locals and visitors really enjoyed but was cancelled due to lack of funding. Step in National Trust and it was all go again this year.

Getting ready

With a forecast looking fair for the morning, quite a few last minute entrants appeared and about 300 people took part on what was a really beautiful Grasmere morning.

Heading for the start

A nice touch was everyone being led to the start at the bottom of Red Bank road by a piper, the sound of pipes drifting through the village. Then it was a pull up Red Bank with a welcome water supply at the top.

Grasmere Gallop view

Down to the lake shore at Rydal, then through the ferns they ran.

Running through the ferns

Some on their own and some in groups. All with one aim, to finish the race.

Grasmere Gallop runners

It didn’t seem to take long at all before the runners headed back into he village. Clusters of people clapping loudly as they passed.

Reaching the end

Everyone seemed to be enjoying the event and there was more to come. A teddy Dash for the under 5′s and a family run to follow.

Stop the traffic! Coming through.

On the Sports Field spectators were enjoying the various stands, including Langdale and Ambleside Mountain Rescue and Made in Cumbria.

Gallop Runners

Not only were these runners having a great day out but were putting something back into the Lake District by supporting the National Trust.

Grasmere Gallop 2011

Back to the Sports Field and the final flag. From what I heard afterwards it truly was “a grand day out”.

Grasmere Gallop Finish

 

Grasmere Info you can Trust

The new season always brings a few changes to Grasmere. Shops open and shut, people come and go. This year however we have a welcome addition to the Village.

National Trust Shop and Information Centre Grasmere

As Grasmere is a busy tourist area, the recent loss of our Tourist Information Centre was of great concern to traders and locals alike. With nowhere to welcome our visitors and provide local information it didn’t give a very good impression to visitors from all over the world.

Touch Screen National Trust Information

National Trust had previously had a shop at Church Stile Grasmere which had closed some years ago and had more recently been occupied by Taffy Thomas Storyteller Laureate. Taffy no longer needed the whole building (his Storytellers Garden is still located here) so the good folk from National Trust decided to not only open a shop again, but to also include a much needed information Centre.

Interior Church Stile Grasmere

I have written previously about the history of this Grade Two Listed Building, but a quick resume. Earliest recorded occupant was a Richard Harrison who died in 1662. By the 18th Century the building had become Robert Newton’s Inn. This was visited by William Wordsworth and his brother John, along with Coleridge on their Lake District tour of 1797. It was also a welcome meeting place for coffin bearers who had to carry the dead in all weathers from the Parishes of  Ambleside and Langdale to the Church in Grasmere. A more recent resident was Robert Hayes (1859-1947) who had a market garden and specialised in varieties of heather. A far cry from the Hayes Garden Centre in Ambleside today!.

Local Grasmere Information

The Information Centre includes a comfortable space for people to browse local Information, pick up a bus timetable, and find out information about local events and walks. It is hoped to eventually have the fire going in the winter which would look wonderful. National Trust properties and areas like Aira Force are featured on the walls. Brochures and information about  their properties in the area feature too and with places like Sizergh Castle, Beatrix Potter’s Hilltop, Wordsworth’s House at Cockermouth and the wonderful Townend to visit, there should be something for everyone. Staff are able to download local walks, and it’s hoped that at some stage in the future National Trust Rangers will use the space to meet and chat with visitors and tell them a bit about their work in looking after the area.

Beatrix Potter Information

Connected to the Information Centre is a National Trust Shop, but not just any shop!. Local crafts and producers are featured, including such favourites as Hawkshead Relish, Herdwick Rugs and even little cute Herdwick Sheep.

Herdwick products

Walkers haven’t been forgotten either. Books, maps, Handihikes, and local Grasmere walks on waterproof paper (who said it always rains in the Lake District) are available.

Maps galore

One of the most popular purchases in the shop is the new Tubular Fells map, available framed or unframed which features all the Wainwrights in the form of a London tube map. Very clever!.

Grasmere National Trust Shop

So why not pop in and say hello next time you are in Grasmere. Keeping ahead of the times they are even on Twitter @NTGrasmereshop so if you can’t manage a visit in person you can still keep up to date with local news.

National Trust Information Centre and Shop, Church Stile, Grasmere. Beside the Gingerbread shop and St Oswald’s Church in the centre of the village.

Spring has sprung in Grasmere

At last the clocks have changed and the nights will be getting lighter. Summer is on it’s way and the signs are all around in Grasmere.

Grasmere Postbox and Daffodils

When I looked out at the Sports Field the other day I had seen crowds of people hanging over the wall looking at something. Curiosity got the better of me so I went to investigate what this new spectator sport could be.

Newly born lamb

Well Grasmere Sports might draw the crowds every year but the sight of lambs being born on the field was coming a close second!

Mother and lambs

Young and old were standing patiently watching the arrival of lambs right there in front of them, and I make no apologies for the number of lamb photos as they were just so cute.

Resting mother and lamb

The sun was shining too, which was a welcome sight after the long winter.

Grasmere Sports Field

The National Trust Regional Headquarters are based in Grasmere and I had to make a visit there, so decided to carry on and come back round by the path that runs from just opposite, across the field and back into Grasmere.

Helm Crag and Grasmere

Everything was waking from the long Winter, the birds sounded happy and splashes of colour were appearing.

Spring Flowers

When I came to the Millennium Bridge I decided to go round by Grasmere Daffodil Garden to see how the Daffs were progressing. Perfect timing!

Grasmere Daffodil Garden

The daffodils were in full bloom and I noticed some new slabs had been laid on the path, so I went to take a look as several people had asked me to let them know when theirs were laid.

Grasmere Daffodil Garden

I had also seen another sign of Spring on my walk, some more new arrivals will be coming soon.

Frog spawn

Hard to believe this will produce frogs swimming about, but strangely fascinating!

Just time to give William Wordsworth a nod on the way past, and nice to see he had his own Daffodils to enjoy.

Daffodils at Wordsworth's Grave Grasmere

Grasmere is perfect at any time of year but Spring has to be one of the best times to visit as the village awakes for the tourist season about to begin. Ok you know i’m going to do it! One last lamb photo.

Relaxing in Grasmere sunshine

Wordsworth, Faeries, and Mulled Apple Juice.

Not a particularly inspiring day for a walk, a bit grey and gloomy, however as you will see I did manage to find a bit of colour in Grasmere.

Rowing Boat on Grasmere Lake

Just a quick walk on Silver Howe today as rain wasn’t far away. I headed up towards Allan Bank.

Allan Bank Sign Grasmere

Owned by the National Trust, it is now a private residence, however it has had a few notable tenants. Built by Liverpool Attorney Mr Crump this new and large house dominated the view up the Easdale Valley. Wordsworth had seen Allan Bank being built when he lived in Dove Cottage and had called it “a temple of abomination”. He had to eat his words a few years later as his family had outgrown Dove Cottage and it was to Allan Bank that they moved. They were not happy there, it was draughty with smoky chimneys which blew back into the house.

Allan Bank Grasmere

Dorothy Wordsworth however did have a few good words to say about the view from inside Allan Bank looking out “Wherever we turn there is nothing more beautiful than we see from our windows, while the treasures of Easdale lie as it were at our door”.

Tunnel in Allan Bank grounds

And Coleridge liked it so much he stayed for 8 months. Two of  Wordsworth’s children were born here, Catherine in 1808 and William in 1810. As you walk past, see if you can spot the open ended tunnel hidden in the grounds.

Towards Helm Crag

The weather was still fairly miserable so I headed up the lane towards Wray Gill on the slopes of Silver Howe.

Wray Gill

After climbing carefully over the slippery rocks, I turned to head down back to Grasmere.

Wray Gill towards Grasmere

On a clear day the views from here are spectacular with Grasmere, Rydal and the surrounding fells stretched out before you, a lovely place to sit and have a picnic.

Towards Grasmere Lake

If you head down and over the stile and veer to your right you hit the path down off the fellside. As I was getting chilly now I was looking forward to seeing if Faeryland Tea Garden was open for the season, as the path comes out directly opposite.

Faeryland Grasmere

Result! Not only was it open, but was thoughtfully selling hot mulled apple juice. Deliciously warming apple and cinnamon, what could be better. As I thawed out I sat and looked at the one bit of colour I had seen all day, the rowing boats bobbing on the lake.

Rowing Boats, Grasmere

Faeryland sells the most amazing range of teas. Who would think somewhere in Grasmere would be selling such delights as, Russian Caravan tea, Nonsuch Nilgirin black tea, Organic Khartoum Hibiscus tea, Lovers Leap Estate ceylon tea, Pai Mu tan white tea, or indeed, Kama Sutra chai! Even better if you can’t manage a visit to Grasmere in person, they are all available on Ebay.

Faeryland Grasmere

I love this time of year in Grasmere, everything is getting spruced up for the season. Just think how many people will enjoy a row on the lake in these boats this year.

Faeryland Grasmere

Although another mulled apple juice was tempting, it was time to head for home, with a quick nod to the faeries on the way past.

Grasmere Faery

Postscript. Today 23rd March 2011. Fire broke out in Allan Bank last night in the roof and first floor. At the height of the fire there were five appliances in attendance. No one was injured. The damage has still to be assessed. It is thought to have been started by an electrical fault.

Damage to the roof. Allan Bank Grasmere

Grasmere Riverside Walk

River Rothay Grasmere

This is a nice little circular walk round the village and takes you away from the traffic heading through the village. Suitable for wheelchairs and prams too, although it can get a bit muddy after heavy rain. It can be accessed from various places in the village.

Grasmere School

I started at the Stock Lane car park and walked along Stock Lane into the village past the village school, there used to be access through the school yard but this has been stopped as it wasn’t great when the children were out playing having random walkers crossing the playground. You can still connect to it this way at School holidays and weekends. Handy to know you can also park in the school yard during these times for a small donation through the school letter box for school funds.

Church Bridge

Crossing the river at church bridge you come to St. Oswalds church.

St Oswalds Church Grasmere

Dedicated to St Oswald, a 7th Century king of Northumbria. The oldest parts of the present church date back to Medieval times. Take the path through the churchyard which comes out at the Grasmere Gingerbread shop.

Grasmere Gingerbread Shop

The aroma will reach you before you get there. Hard to believe this tiny building was once the village school. You can also take a slight detour to your right to the Grasmere Daffodil Garden. Across from the gingerbread shop is Church Stile.

Church Stile Grasmere

A row of 17th century cottages which house the Storytellers Garden. Always worth a visit if Taffy Thomas Storyteller Laureate is at home.

You can go down to the right of the gingerbread shop beside the Wordsworth Hotel to join the riverside walk but we are carrying on through the village. Keep straight on and walk up College Street. On your right is the village green with Heaton Cooper Art Studios in front of you.

Heaton Cooper Studios Grasmere

Sam Read’s bookshop is to your left. Grasmere has a wonderful selection of independent and individual shops you won’t find anywhere else.

Sam Read's Bookshop Grasmere

Turn left at Sam Read’s and you are now on Broadgate. The whitewashed cottage across the open field to your left is a listed building called Dockwray. Dorothy Wordsworth recorded in her Grasmere Journal a visit to the cottage on May 28th 1800 to see her friend Jenny Dockewray.

Broadgate Grasmere

Walk along Broadgate until you reach the village Hall just beyond the row of shops. This is where the annual Lakes Artists Exhibition takes place in the summer. Turn down the side signposted car park while looking to your left over Broadgate meadow. You will see Grasmere’s war memorial located on a grassy bank. Close by is the “Peace oak” planted by Canon Rawnsley founder of the National Trust. It was planted on the 19th July 1919 to commemorate the fifth anniversary of the start of the Great War.

Surrounding Fells

At the far side of the car park is a footbridge over the River Rothay, this is where we are going. From here there are great views of the Fells to the East especially Stone Arthur, with it’s rocky summit, and Heron Pike the fell further to the right. The rest of the walk is along the riverside back in the direction we started from. There are several good opportunities to take photos along the way.

Grasmere signpost

You can cut up to the main road at one point or head across the fields to the Swan Hotel. In the summer months red campion flowers along the riverbank, and if you are very lucky you may see a flash of blue as a Kingfisher darts by.

Grasmere Riverside Walk

After crossing a wooden bridge, carry on until you come to a metal bridge. This is the Millennium Bridge,

Grasmere Millennium Bridge

Built, yes you guessed it, to celebrate the Millennium.

Millenium Stone

Cross over and head to the right  with Grasmere Sports field on your left,past the workingmans club and along the little lane to your left.

Grasmere Sports Field

This brings you back to the main carpark where we started. There are toilets situated here but be aware they are not open in the winter months. That’s the Riverside walk finished but perhaps visit Dove Cottage which is out of the car park to your left, and rounds off the day nicely. Nice tea rooms there too.

Grasmere Winter Wonderland

The first snow of the winter arrived, and as I was early for work I decided to walk round the lake. What footwear, was my first thought, however as the snow was really thick I just put my snow boots on as they are warm, waterproof and have a good grip and it is just a low level stroll.

Grasmere Winter Wonderland

Starting off at the Garden Centre opposite the Church, the road to the side is called Red Bank Road.

Snowy Grasmere Garden Centre

I knew there wouldn’t be much traffic as the snow was so thick, but I wasn’t prepared for such a wonderful walk. Off up Red Bank I went, stopping to look at Faeryland Tea Gardens.

Faeryland Grasmere in the Snow

You can hire rowing boats here during the summer, but these boats were not going anywhere in a hurry!

Frozen Boats Faeryland Grasmere.

Further up the lane it was almost like being in Switzerland the snow was so deep.

Red Bank Road Grasmere

After passing this house you carry on up the lane past a house with a letterbox in the wall on the left, then the views become more open before you come to a stile to cut down to the lakeside.

Frozen Grasmere Lake

The morning light was gorgeous with the sunshine reflecting on the snow.

Early Morning Grasmere Lane

When you get down to the lake there is a little boathouse and a bench to sit on, bit chilly for hanging about at this time of year, but lovely in the summer.

Boat House Grasmere Lake

The rest of the walk is straightforward with a path running along the side of the lake, it can be very busy in Summer but I only met one other person, and this little chap!

Robin Grasmere Lake

Now there is a story behind this, as I approached the other person all I could see were several robins all flying at her repeatedly. I couldn’t work out what was going on. Turns out she always takes a handful of bird food out on her walks and these greedy birds were looking for more. It was like a scene out of Mary Poppins!.

Looking over frozen Grasmere Lake towards Dunmail Raise

Although the sun was coming up, the far end of the lake was in shadow and it was bitterly cold, the ducks had found some unfrozen water to swim in though.

A very chilly Grasmere Lake

Through the woods and back on to the main road at Penny Rock. Penny Rock, so called because a penny was added on to the rates to cover the cost of blasting through the rock to build the Turnpike road to Grasmere. Although the Rydal sections of the road were made about 1770, this section was not made until about 1831.  As you leave Grasmere going up Dunmail Raise towards Keswick look to the left and you will see The Toll Bar Cottage, a reminder of the direct tax which used to be levied on all road users.

Towards Silver Howe

To be honest, it was this bit of the road that was the worst to walk on, while the snow on the other side had been crisp and untouched, this side of the lake is on the main road and obviously the snow ploughs had shoved all snow from the road to the pavement.

Grasmere

It was also in the shadow, so much colder.

Winter, Grasmere Lake.

Now I know the purists are going to contact me saying “There is no such thing as Grasmere Lake, it’s a Mere” well just to put the record straight. Obviously I know that but sometimes it is difficult to distinguish Grasmere as in Village, from Grasmere Lake. Hence my use of the word lake.

Just time to cut round by Dove Cottage and then back into the village.

Dove Cottage Grasmere

More snow is forecast later this week, so looking forward to more wintery walks.

Autumn at Grasmere Lake

As we seem to be experiencing an Indian Summer in Grasmere at the moment, the temptation is to get up and out as early as possible for a walk before the crowds descend. That was my plan this morning, however it seemed I was not alone in that idea.

Sunrise at Grasmere Lake

As I came round Penny Rock to walk round the Lake there on the shore were a literal row of photographers (what do you call a collection of photographers? In this case a negative seems appropriate).

Early morning Grasmere Lake

Now if anything is going to make me self concious its a row of tripods with high tech cameras while I “point and shoot” with my little Cannon Ixus 850.

Grasmere Lake

Plenty of room for all of us though so decided to head up Loughrigg Terrace for a higher view point, and you know I never saw another soul from then on.

Looking towards Rydal

Looking to the left, Rydal came into view. Every valley has it’s own little micro climate and Rydal had it’s own little cloud above it.

Towards Rydal

The sun was up now and I had reached the top of the terrace. What a view, glad I had my flask with me. Can’t beat the first coffee of the day on top of a hill!.

Grasmere Lake from Loughrigg Terrace

Now I am going to get a bit poetic here. I love to read “The Grasmere Journals” written by Dorothy Wordsworth when she lived at Dove Cottage in Grasmere. Today’s entry for 11th October 1800 says “The colours of the mountains soft and rich, with orange fern”. And that describes the scene perfectly.

Autumnal Grasmere Lake

A final look at the view and time to head downhill, still thinking about Dorothy Wordsworth and her Journals.

Towards Dunmail Raise

On 12th October 1800 she wrote ” Beautiful Day. We walked before tea to observe the many coloured foliage the oaks dark green with yellow leaves – The birches generally still green, some near the water yellowish. The sycamore crimson & crimson tufted – the mountain ash a deep orange – the common ash Lemon colour but many ashes still fresh in their summer green”.

Grasmere Lake

It was still only 8am and when I got back down to the shore there wasn’t a soul about, the lake was all mine again.

Autumn at Grasmere Lake

Peace perfect Peace.